Way back in 2018 we put up a post entitled “Choosing the right lenses for your safari”
Even now, after 5 years and some amazing advances in camera technology, it is still the post that draws the most comments so we thought that it would be a good idea to revisit this subject.
Probably one of the most frequent questions we get asked by clients is “What lenses should I take on safari?”
This question is not limited to first timers either; because the equipment you need to take depends very much on where you are going and what the conditions will be like. Photographing lions on the plains of Masai Mara requires a different approach to photographing gorillas in the rainforests of Congo or Uganda, and photographing birds is very different to photographing elephants.
So how do you make the right selection?
Of course there is an assumption being made here; that you have a variety of equipment to choose from. The dilemma of having more equipment that you need or want to carry on any one safari is perhaps one that applies only to those DSLR users with a selection of lenses and accessories.
If you’re an enthusiast who prefers the convenience of a bridge camera then life is much simpler
Bridge Cameras
Let me say right away that there is no intention here to heap scorn on bridge cameras. The convenience of having a zoom lens that covers the range from 24mm to 1400mm cannot be overstated.
How many times have those of us lugging a 15kg backpack full of gear looked enviously at compact cameras that have it all covered.
The 2 standout bridge cameras at the moment are the Sony RX10iv and the Nikon Coolpix P950 or P1000. Both can shoot RAW.
The Sony has a range from 28-600mm, the Nikon P950 covers 24-2000mm and the P1000 24-3000mm. If you want the ultimate on longe range shooting then one of the Nikon Coolpix is hard to beat. If you are happy with a more modest zoom range but want the best image quality a bridge camera can offer, then it has to be the Sony.
Of course bridge cameras do have some limitations:
a smaller sensor size means that the performance in poor light conditions is, for the most part, not outstanding
because every function is battery operated, battery life can be short so you’ll need to carry several spares.
But in good sunny conditions almost all modern bridge cameras are capable of producing fine images and if the images are going to be used mainly for posting online, the quality is absolutely fine.
DSLR & Mirrorless
But, for all the convenience of a bridge camera, most serious photographers prefer the versatility of a DSLR. (Digital Single Lens Reflex). In recent years many photographers are choosing to use Mirrorless cameras rather than DSLRs.
Both DSLR and Mirrorless cameras use interchangeable lenses, in many cases they can use the same lenses, but there are significant differences. This article will help you understand them.
For the purposes of this post, as it is mainly lenses we’re talking about, we’ll not spend time arguing the merits of one versus the other; they do the same job.
Why DSLR or mirrorless?
Versatility and image quality. Simple as that.
The ability to pick the lens that is right for the task in hand is a big plus. Although the lens on a bridge camera covers a huge focal range, there are inevitably some trade-offs to achieve that.
Their compact size usually means a smaller sensor which impacts on the camera’s ability to perform in poor light conditions and on your ability to maximise your image size.
Using a DSLR you are looking through the actual lens at your subject; bridge and compact cameras use an electronic viewfinder (EVF). They used to be pretty awful, but now they are very good indeed, however it does mean that you are not seeing the true image. Mirrorless cameras also use an EVF, but they are exceptionally good and have one advantage over the Through The Lens view of a DSLR that many people love.
Although with a DSLR you can see exactly what you are shooting, you do not know, without checking the display, whether or not you have the right exposure. You can see the settings you have applied, but not how they affect your shot. With the EVF on a Mirrorless camera the image you see takes all your settings into account and shows you how the final image will look. With a Mirrorless it is almost impossible to over or underexpose your shot.
So, on the assumption that you’re using a DSLR or Mirrorless and want to cover all eventualities, what should you take?
In practical terms, you should be able to manage with 3 lenses, maybe just 2. Any more than that and not only does weight become an issue but you’ll waste too much time faffing about changing lenses or deciding which one to use.
If you can cover focal lengths from about 20mm to 400mm you won’t miss out on much. If you like photographing birds then you may want to stretch out that longer length to 500mm or 600mm.
70-200mm zoom
One of the most popular lenses, for both professionals and enthusiasts is a 70-200mm zoom. The 70-200mm lens is a flagship lens for companies like Nikon and Canon; consequently they are very well built and capable of terrific results.
No disrespect intended to users of Sony, Fujifilm or OM System; I am sure they are able to offer lenses of comparable focal lengths to those I am suggesting.
So, this is the lens we’d put at the heart of our selection and one that will probably be on your camera for a large part of your safari.
A lot of people think that shooting wildlife requires really long lenses; usually it doesn’t. What is does require is flexible lenses, and the 70-200mm is one of the most flexible.
A lot of people are surprised by just how close you can get to large animals like lions, leopards and elephants.
Far better to use a slightly shorter focal length than you need and then crop, than have too long a focal length and not be able to get your whole subject in the frame. Think ahead, don’t find yourself needing to change lenses when you should be taking photographs.
The other big advantage of the 70-200mm lens is that it is relatively fast; either f2.8 or f4. That is a big help in situations where the light is poor. A lot of animals only become active in the late afternoon and with the sun going down fast, the light deteriorates quickly. If you want to keep shooting, you’ll need to be able to open up the aperture and increase the ISO just to allow you a reasonably fast shutter speed. In areas where there are a lot of trees or dense bush, your subject may not be out in the open. A good example of this is mountain gorillas. In the rainforest there is likely to be a lot of shade and it could be raining; even with a wide aperture you will probably still need an ISO setting of 1600 or more. In fact, if you are trekking to photograph gorillas we’d recommend a shorter zoom, perhaps 28-120mm; most people are able to get much closer than they expected.
OK, so we’ve got one lens sorted, but 70mm is not wide enough for a lot of situations and 200mm is not long enough for subjects like birds.
Wider
One of the things that makes Africa such a special place for photography is its size. For many, one of the iconic images of Africa is the plains of the Masai Mara teeming with animals. To capture this kind of scene you need to be able to shoot wide. It’s not a close up of one animal you’re after, but the sheer spectacle of animals as far as the eye can see.
Having a good wide angle lens is also invaluable when the action is really close, or if you can’t get enough distance from your subject.
Once again a zoom lens works well. Something like a 24-70mm fits neatly with the 70-200mm.
For a bit more versatility you could opt for an 28-120mm lens. This gives you a bit of overlap and means that you won’t need to change lenses quite so often.
Either one of these will serve you well when you are close to the big mammals; whether it is gorillas in the forest or elephants at a waterhole.
Longer
One of the favourite lenses for professional wildlife photographers is the 400mm. But buying one of these beauties is expensive and out of the reach of many amateurs and enthusiasts. Fear not though, there are other ways of getting this focal length.
One of the simplest is to use an 100-400mm zoom lens. These lenses are also highly rated and cover a very useful range. In fact, if you have one of these, you could leave the 70-200mm at home.
The big drawback of this lens though, is its weight. It weighs over 1.5kg. Not a problem if you’re able to support it somehow, but it becomes heavy quite quickly if you’re hand holding.
Nikon offer a 18-300mm lens for around £650. It is not the most robust construction but it is light, easy to use and delivers excellent images.
An alternative, but less flexible, option is to take a 300mm lens and a tele-converter or multiplier.
The advantage of a 300mm prime lens is that it is very light and easy to hand hold. The addition of a 1.4x or 2x tele-converter will turn it into a 420mm or 600mm lens, for very little extra weight. It does mean a bit of faffing around though, usually at a time when you really don’t want to be faffing around.
Super zoom
If weight is not an issue, then there are some very good ‘super zoom’ lenses available, with a focal length of 150-600mm. Third party lens makers Tamron and Sigma both have highly rated 150-600mm lenses. They are light enough (around 2kg) to hand hold for short periods, have built in vibration reduction and come in just under £1,000.
Sigma even have a 60-600mm zoom that would cover just about every situation you might come across for around £1,700 and Tamron have a 18-400mm for around £700.
Nikon users may prefer to stick with the brand and choose their 200-500mm zoom, which is just over £1,000 and delivers incredible images for the price. If you’ve moved across to mirrorless then you should definitely take a look at the Nikkor 180-600mm lens, it is superb and the price is very affordable.
Similarly Canon users have a couple of excellent super zooms available: The 100-500mm USM and the 200-800mm USM, which is actually cheaper than its shorter stable mate.
Sony too have a super zoom, the FE 200-600mm OSS which is surprisingly reasonably priced.
If bird photography is your thing, then these are well worth considering, but make sure you get plenty of practice before you go the longer the lens the more vulnerable it is to camera shake, resulting in unsharp images.
Summary
Please note, that these are just suggestions for a selection of lenses that will cover most situations; take these lenses and you won’t miss out on many shots. They are not by any means the only options and specific situations may benefit from different choices.
If you take just 2 lenses and are also able to take 2 bodies, then you can go through your whole safari without needing to change lens.
With 3 lenses you should put the lens you will use the most on the body you like best with the second most used lens on the other body. You will only need to change to the 3rd lens in exceptional situations
Think carefully before you buy new lenses
Don’t feel that you must rush out to buy a new lens just for your safari. Think about your ongoing photography needs; how much will you use it when your safari is over? Far better to buy lenses that you’ll use on an everyday basis; even with a relatively short zoom lens, like an 28-120mm, you’ll still get plenty of great shots on safari.
It is also worth mentioning that you can get some excellent lenses at terrific prices by buying second hand. You should always buy the best lens you can afford; if you buy a cheap lens it is quite probably you won’t like the results and will want to upgrade it before too long.
Buying a lens online at the cheapest price sounds appealing but you won’t know what you’re getting until it arrives. Wherever possible we recommend that you visit your nearest photographic dealer and try the lens on your camera body to see how it feels. Take a few sample shots as well.
What else?
Well, 2 bodies are better than 1. Just the ability to have 2 lenses of different focal lengths mounted and ready to go is a big help. It also means that in the unlikely event of camera failure, you have backup.
Peripherals
Some kind of support is useful to have. Whether it is a tripod, monopod or something as simple as a bean bag, anything that helps keep your camera steady will make it easier to get sharper images.
Don’t forget spare batteries and memory cards.
If you are thinking of buying new lenses for your safari, then this article is worth a read.
Best lenses for wildlife photography
I have a Nikon Z8, for a safari trip which lenses you recommend?
Hi Jesus,
If you want to stick with Nikon Z lenses then the choice – for me at least – is an easy one if this safari is the only consideration.
I would take 2 lenses:
Nikon Z 24-120mm f4 S
Nikon Z 180-600mm f5.6-6.3 VR
These 2 lenses will cover just about every possible situation.
cheers
Martin
I’m going to Volcanoes National Park to see the gorillas, I’m going to the Masai Mara and Okavango Delta. I would also like to use these glasses for my next trips to any city or adventure. Do you think that those two lenses you suggest are still the best option? Or would you recommend something else?
Thank you.
Hello,
For your visit to Volcanoes NP you will probably mostly use the 24-120mm lens. You will be in forest, often with low light, and will be close to the gorillas.
In Masai Mara & Okavango you will find that lens is ideal for shooting herds of animals or large mammals like elephants or giraffe and other mammals when you are close.
The 180-600mm lens will be great for shots of more distant animals and also for birds.
Looking ahead, these lenses will serve you well for just about any wildlife adventure.
For other trips and visits to cities or cultural sites the 24-120mm should cover most eventualities.
Over time, if you find that there are shots you are missing because you don’t have the right focal length or if you find yourself using one particular focal length most of the time you can consider buying a fixed focal length (prime) lens of the appropriate length.
Martin
Hi,
Great Article. I’m planning to visit Masai Mara, Lake Naivasha & Amboseli National Park. I own Sony A7III plus 24-105 lens. I was thinking about renting a 100-400 or 200-600. But 200-600 seems to be very heavy. I’ll be able to carry only one lens. In that case which one should I choose for this trip – 24-105, 100-400 or 200-600?
Kris
Hi Kris,
Just being able to carry 1 lens is a bit of a dilemma, however I think your best option will be to take the equipment you already own.
I have done safaris with just a compact camera (24-120mm lens) and got plenty of great shots. You may be surprised just how close you can get to the wildlife. There are also loads of people who take just their cell phone.
In Amboseli you will probably want to take some landscape shots with Mt Kilimanjaro is the background, so your 24-150mm lens would be ideal. Amboseli is also famous for its elephants, once again your 24-105mm will be ideal. When you encounter big cats, as I am sure you will, if your guide is any good you should be able to get pretty close, so no need for a really long lens.
You didn’t say when you’ll be travelling, but if you are visiting Masai Mara for the wildebeest migration then you’ll be taking lots of shots of herds, 24-105mm again.
Lake Naivasha is the place where you would benefit most from a longer lens as the wildlife there is mostly birds & hippos; no problem for the hippos but 105mm is a bit short for birds.
However, I assume that you can crop your sensor – most full frame cameras can do this – in which case you will increase your focal length to just over 155mm.
Another possibility would be to rent the 100-400 lens and use your cellphone for the wider shots, although you may prefer not to do this.
cheers
Martin
I’m upgrading from a canon 80d 18-135 & 55-250 to a (planned) sony a7rv or a7cr for my once in a lifetime safari to Kenya/Tanzania.
The lens I’m planning to pick are 24-70 gm2 and 70-200 gm2. Is it worth saving for/or replacing a lens for 200-600? I’ll probably only carry 1 body due to customs and weights limitation. The 12-24 gm seems a tad bit expensive and the 18-35 gm2 is a bit redundant and a direct competition to the 24-70.
Hi Ankit,
It really comes down to what you want to take photographs of and what you will be shooting most in years ahead.
If I assume you have decided to go for the G Master lenses ( Sony’ most expensive) rather than the significantly cheaper models, personally I would rather have the FE 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 OSS G Master in place of the 70-200mm. Combined with the 24-70mm lens it will cover almost all of your needs and 100-400mm is a very useable length for day to day use, even when not on safari.
I do like the 200-600mm but it leave quite a gap between the 70mm of your shorter lens and the 200mm starting focal length of the longer one.
Martin
I have a Nikon Z8 and Zf. I don’t have the best lenses, but I have good lenses. 14-30 f4, 24-200, 100-400 (and 1.4 tc), 28-400, and 180-600. I plan to take the 24-200 on my Zf, and 180-600 on my Z8. But I’m struggling with a few decisions. First, Do I take the 180-600 or the 100-400? I’ve used the 100-400 and find it very manageable. Just got the 180-600, and I wonder if the extra reach is worth the larger size and weight. The other question is evening shots. None of these lenses are fast. Should I consider getting and bringing a faster lens just for evening? I have the 40mm f2. That would be 3 lenses to carry. Finally, is 24mm wide enough for the migration? Or should I bring the 14-30 as well – 4 lenses.
I’m doing 4 short safaris in Kenya, 14 days, Masai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo east and west. Still working on dates. Maybe June, or September.
Hey Will,
It looks like you have quite a selection of lenses. My first thought is that the 180-600mm lens is an ideal lens for safari. What prompted you to buy it if you weren’t going to take it on safari?
Yes, the 100-400mm lens is a super safari lens as well, but it does not have the reach of the 180-600mm.
From what you’ve got my selection would be to take the 24-200mm and the 180-600mm – with these 2 you will have pretty much every possibility covered. Yes, 24mm is wide enough for the migration.
The only caveat to that is whether or not you are interested in birds. If you are, then definitely the 180-600mm, if you are not going to be shooting birds then the 100-400mm will be fine for almost all mammals.
As for evening shots; there is very little twilight in East Africa, the sun sets pretty quickly so taking an extra lens for evening shots may not be worth it. Both your cameras handle low light well and stabilisation means you can work with slower shutter speeds to help keep the ISO manageable.
have a great trip
Martin
Hi Martin,
Excellent article! I’m going on a trip to Mana Pools in November and will be bringing my Canon R5 and 5D Mark IV. I’m planning to rent an RF 400mm f/2.8 lens to use alongside my 70-200mm lens. However, I’m undecided on whether to bring my 24-105mm lens or rent an ultra-wide 15-35mm lens. The lodges I’m staying at have an underground hide, and there are walking safaris with opportunities to see elephants up close.
What would you suggest?
Thanks,
Subi
Hi Subi,
Mana Pools, fabulous.
If I were in your shoes and was going to rent a lens for my safari I would not go for a 400mm. Instead I would prefer the RF 100-500mm f4.5-7.1L IS USM lens as it gives you much more flexibility. Yes it is not as fast but that should not be an issue.
In November you should get some good sunny days but it is the start of the rainy season so there will be overcast days as well and probably rain too. If the rains have not yet arrived it will be very dusty so if you can avoid changing lenses that would be a bonus.
At the wider end, 24mm on a full frame body should be wide enough so you could potentially travel with just 2 lenses, your 24-105mm and the rented 100-500mm.
have a great safari
Martin
Excellent article on lenses!
I am off on Sunday for a 2 week trip around Namibia, Sossusvlei, Swakopmund and ending up for a couple of days in Etosha doing game drives.
As for camera equipment I intend to take a Leica Q2 28mm 1.7 for the dunes, street photography, low light etc.
Problem I have is which camera to take for the game drives, choice of Leica CL with 18-56mm and Panasonic 70-300mm (105 – 450mm equiv) or Nikon with Z6ii and a 24-200mm (300mm in DX mode)
CL was bought purely because of the weight saving then realised that most of the shots in the game drives will be from a truck so weight not an issue!!
I have no idea how close the animals will be but gather that the guides know their stuff and that we could end up fairly close.
Your thoughts on which kit to take would be much appreciated?
Hi Frank,
Lucky you. Namibia is a great destination.
My first thought was that it would make sense to take an ‘all Leica’ bag of kit, simply so you have maximum flexibility with lenses etc and a fallback if one of your bodies has problems. Then I realised that the Q2 does not have interchangeable lenses. Doh!
The Z6ii would be a good choice for wildlife as the animal detection works well, although as it is only 24.6 megapixels at full frame I would not be too happy cropping down to half that in DX mode.
You have a better selection of lenses available for your Leica CL and that is already a crop sensor with 24 megapixels so that would almost certainly be my choice.
The rainy season should be long finished by now and Etosha will be very dry and dusty. The majority of your animal sightings are likely to be around the waterholes so although you will see a lot of them, they will not be always be up close. As you drive through the park you will certainly find other animals away from the waterholes and how close you can get to them depends entirely on how close they are to the road – you are not allowed to leave the roads in Etosha.
My suggestion would be to have the 70-300mm lens on your CL as standard as it will cover most of what you encounter.
As mentioned, Etosha will be very dusty, in fact it is likely to be dusty everywhere so avoid changing lenses while you are on the move and only change in the vehicle if you are confident that it is dust free.
enjoy
Martin
Great article, though it has probably left me in even more of a quandary!
I’m going to Nyerere National Park on a five night safari, and we are restricted on weight to 15kg each (and there is a beach holiday after, so a different set of clothes to some degree). I have a Nikon D7500 and my original plan was to take my Tamron 70-300 and my Nikon 18-140, and to use to iPhone (I know, sacrilege, but it takes some excellent wide angle shots) for the scenic vistas.
However, I also have a Sigma 10-20 which gives outstanding results at 10mm, and I feel that I might want that club in my bag, so to speak – I am unlikely to go back, and I don’t want to miss the opportunity. The trouble is, it’s a pretty hefty lens, and would push me way over my allowance.
Would you stick with the iPhone for the (probably less frequent) wide angle vista, or replace the 18-140 with the Sigma lens and hope I don’t need anything between 20mm and 70mm?
Hi Nick,
I think I’d stick with your original plan and take the 70-300mm + 18-140mm. If memory serves me these are both DX lenses, designed for crop sensor cameras. If that’s the case you will not encounter many (if any) situations where you need wider than 18m and, I believe, your 10-20mm would spend most of your trip unused in your bag.
have a great trip.
Martin
Thanks Martin – I’ll stick with the plan and save the weight.
Planning a safari including Masai Mara, Samburu, etc. I currently have a Nikon Z6III with a 70-200, 100-400 and 180-600. Trying to decide which to bring and also if I should get/rent something on the lower focal length range like a 24-70. I would really like to try to stick to two, no more than three lenses because I only have one body and I’m not sure I’ll want to change lenses all the time. Any advice?
A Z6iii already, you lucky fella.
You have a neat selection of lenses but, as you pointed out, nothing at the wider end.
I assume the 100-400mm and the 180-600 are Z lenses, is the 70-200mm also a Z lens or one you carried over?
I think you are going to need something wider, perhaps 24-120mm. The Nikon Z version of this lens is excellent.
The next consideration is weight.
If you are willing/able to get something like the 24-120mm lens then I would take that along with either the 100-400mm or 180-600mm.
The 180-600mm is bigger and heavier than the 100-400mm so, unless you are keen on photographing small birds, I would take the 24-120mm & the 100-400mm.
Start out with the 100-400mm attached and only change when you get closer to your subject, encounter a large subject like an elephant or want landscape shots. This would cover almost every scenario and you would keep lens changes to a minimum.
have a great safari
Martin
Thanks for the fast reply! I think I’ll look at picking up/renting the 24-120. I suspect I’ll have plenty of light overall where the f4 will be sufficient – I had previously been trying to decide if a 24-70 f2.8 would be a better option to buy/rent in terms of broader versatility. I do like the idea of getting some wide shots, but also some up- close wildlife portraits. Do you think the 100-400 would cover that? I think where I’m struggling is not knowing how close I’ll be to any given animal. Also, any thoughts on a teleconverter? I’ll probably bring it, but I don’t want to be reliant on changing it in/out too often due to dust and more.
Hi,
To be honest, I think an f4 lens will be quite alright. Modern cameras handle low light very well.
As for close-ups, that depends a lot on your guides. You should be able to get pretty close. Obviously 600mm will get you closer than 400mm and if you are happy with the extra weight then go for it. You won’t lose many shots, if any, between the 120mm of your short lens and the 180mm of your longer lens.
the 180-600mm will also help with birds and more distant subjects although you do need to be aware of heat haze which can mess with focussing on longer focal lengths.
Martin
Oops,
forgot to address the teleconverter question.
Some people swear by them, personally I do not like them. Adding a teleconverter is as much hassle as changing lenses and does impact on image quality.
My personal preference is to skip the converter and simply crop the image a bit.
Martin
One of the best articles I’ve seen on this subject; hoping you can help me with a few questions. We’re looking to book a dream trip to Africa (we haven’t decided between Botswana or Kenya). I have a Nikkor Z 24-120mm f4 S already. I saw your early comment above that you would recommend the 180-600mm as a companion – but what are the pros and cons over the 100-400mm? Would one serve me much better outside the trip? And I have a friend who suggested that I consider picking up a second camera body (used) to avoid having to switch lenses in the field. Is that smart or overkill?
Hi Spencer,
As you already know, both Botswana & Kenya are brilliant safari destinations.
If you do choose to go to Kenya, then I strongly recommend that you look beyond Maasai Mara and Amboseli; both can be very crowded. The private concessions bordering Maasai Mara are excellent though and you should not have too many people in the vehicles for your game drives. A very important consideration when wanting to take photographs.
It is well worth considering adding Samburu to your itinerary. It can also seem a bit busy at times but is has great landscapes and some interesting (different) species.
Kenya also has the advantage of being able to add a few days at the coast at the end of your safari and you could then include Tsavo along the way.
In Botswana you may decide to include Chobe NP in your itinerary. It is a great park and has fabulous wildlife, but give careful thought to where you stay. Kasane is a main access point for Chobe and gives access to both the park and boat trips on the river, but staying in one of the lodges there means a daily (or twice daily) drive into the park and back again. The Kasane lodges have large capacity so there are a lot of vehicles making the same journey so it can be a bit of a procession and those lodges will almost all try to fill their game vehicles so photography is a challenge.
In that regard, Pangolin Photo Safaris are very good – dedicated to photographic trips and with their own small hotel.
One option with Botswana is for you to fly in via Victoria Falls. The road transfer from Vic Falls to Kasane is not too bad. It also gives you the opportunity to spend a couple of days in Zambezi NP.
Anyway, I digress, you asked about lenses.
The pros of the 180-600mm vs 100-400mm are simple; it gives you longer reach and it is also almost half the cost.The downside is that it is larger & heavier and would be more cumbersome to carry around, which won’t matter too much when you’re sitting in a game vehicle or at a lodge but you may find that a disadvantage once you get home.
In terms of image quality they are both excellent.
In either destination you should be able to get close to the animals so 400mm would be long enough for most situations.
Yes, 2 bodies would be nice to have as either destination can be very dusty and if you can avoid too many lens changes that would be good.
You could probably buy the 180-600mm and a second (2nd hand) body for the cost of the 100-400mm.
cheers
Martin
Martin — Thank you again for your response – I’ve since booked our trip and now the waiting begins. In the meantime, do you have any advice on (a) a good/light camera bag that can fit the lenses/bodies discussed and (b) any tips on how to meet what feels like very light weight requirements (15kg) with that gear? Just the lenses discussed and and a couple camera bodies are coming in at ~3.5-4kg much less any filters, the bag itself and so on. And that’s before any clothes!
Hi Spencer,
Weight limits are often a source of anxiety when your safari includes flights on small aircraft so you do need to keep it in mind when packing.
Of the various lenses we discussed I do not know exactly what you will be taking but on the assumption that it is 2 bodies & 2 zooms either of these bags will accommodate your gear + a laptop.
Gura Gear Kiboko
https://guragear.com/products/kiboko-30l-camera-backpack-with-laptop-sleeve?ref=xwU9xYfYfCW7HD
Nya-Evo Fjord
https://nya-evo.eu/
Martin
HI, great articles and leaves food for thought. I’ve been on a number of safaris in Southern Africa. This Sept I’m off to Kenya, travelling around: Laikipia, Mathews Mountain range, Mara Conservancies and NP, and ending in the Nairobi NP. I’m shooting with an R5 and R6 Mk II. Will take 24-105 f/4 (or 24-70 f/2.8), 70-200 f/4, 100-500 f/4.5-7.1 and then considering renting a 400 f/2.8 (have a 1.4 TC). Not worrying about a wide angle for astro.
Any thoughts on my lens choice please? Thinking of the large prime for great bokeh and early morning light shots versus the zoom. Can use the zoom for birds …
Thanks
Steve
Hi Steve,
Your trip sounds great, with so many wonderful places and a lot of variety.
Personally I think the kit you already own will serve you well, they are all quality lenses.
The 400mm f2.8 is a super lens but it weighs 3kg. How much better will the bokeh be versus your 100-500mm lens and does this outweigh the versatility of the zoom?
Will you be driving from one park to the next or taking some light aircraft flights? If you’re going to be flying then weight becomes an issue, as does storing your camera bag in small overhead lockers.
If it was me I’d go with just 24-105mm and 100-500mm. One on each body, no need to change lenses and minimum weight.
cheers
Martin
thanks a lot for the advice
my pleasure
Thank you for this information – it is very helpful!
I am a newbie and heading to Tanzania. I have a Canon EOS Rebel T7i and 2 lenses (17-85mm and 100-300mm) and am thinking I need a bigger lens (likely renting). Do you have any suggestions on what I should get? Thanks!
Hi Leslie,
I don’t really think you need to buy or rent any extra lenses – unless you are really into bird photography, and I think that if you were you would already have a longer lens.
As I understand it you have 1 body and 2 lenses. You’ll probably want to keep the 100-300mm lens on your camera most of the time, switching to the 17-85mm for larger mammals like elephants or giraffes and any herds you come across.
You are already familiar with the lenses you have and will be much more comfortable using them than a longer lens you might rent.
A lot of your photography will be done from a game vehicle. Unless you’ve paid extra for a private vehicle there will probably be others in the vehicle with you and, even though most people think they are good at keeping still, they are usually not. People will be moving about trying to get a better angle and this will cause the vehicle to rock a bit, making it that much harder to keep very long lens steady. Your 100-300mm lens should give yo nice sharp shots and if you need to crop a bit when you get home to bring your subject closer then you’ll have a good base to work with.
enjoy your safari
Martin
Thank you so much for your reply. If I told you my 2 adult kids will also have their own Canon EOS Rebel T7i cameras with similar lenses as mine, would you suggest a different lens so that we our options covered or are we still good with these?
Hi Leslie,
I still think you are pretty well covered.
The last thing you want to be doing on safari is trying to decide who gets which lens. At least that way if you have a good shot then your kids should also have a good shot.
Martin
Just to add to your recommendation… I had the 24-70 and the 70-200… I add the 24-120 and the 100-400 for traveling… those 2 lens are so good that I sold my 24-70 and my 70-200! And bought the 800 pf (nikon Z gear)… I will not bring my 800 for safari (size, weight,too much reach) but the 24-120 and the 100-400 (+tc1.4) should be enough.
This is such a great article and commentary. I was in Africa last year for two months (Botswana/Chobe, East Africa and Rwanda and returning this year, in a few days in fact, for two months in Namibia, Zimbabwe/Mana Pools, Kenya (amboseli, borana/lewa, solio, ol pejeta and then up to Sambaru and Loisaba, finishing with a week in Uganda. This year will be a combo of volunteering in conservations/sanctuaries and self driving, so we will have a lot of flexibility. I bought the Canon EOS R7 last year, and the 70-200 RF 2.8, 24-240 and another lens came with the camera that I have yet to use. It’s a crop sensor, as you know. I came back last year with amazing photos, for someone who is an amateur. I used the 70-200 80% of the time. This year I am not ready to upgrade my body, but I feel like i should have a wide angle or Prime lens, maybe the RF 28-70? Curious what you think? I have tried the 100-400 and the 100-500, but the former isn’t much different than my 70-200, and the 500 is simply too heavy for me and I don’t enjoy it. What would you recommend for a 3rd lens to take with me, in addition to what I had last year?
Hi Jennifer,
a couple of questions to start with if I may.
You said that you used your 70-200mm lens for 80% of the time on your previous trip. What did you use on the other 20%. Was it your 24-240mm or something different?
What kind of shots made up that 20% for which your 70-200mm was not suitable. If they were wide angle shots and you used your 24-240mm lens, then you already have what you need, although I can see why something a little less bulky would be appealing.
I’m all for not spending money unnecessarily so you won’t be surprised that my first observation is that you already have a lens that covers the focal range of the 28-70mm lens you suggest you might buy; your 24-240mm.
In fact this lens would cover the range of both 28-70mm and 70-200mm. I do understand that it is not as fast as either of those lenses but the benefit of having just one lens on safari is significant. Particularly as you’ll be moving around a lot and weight is a consideration.
In most photo viewing software you can look at the EXIF (Exchangeable Image File Format) files store important data about photographs. Almost all digital cameras create these data files each time you snap a new picture. An EXIF file holds all the information about the image itself — such as the exposure level, and any settings you used.
This information will tell you how many of your photos were taken at f2.8 and how many at f4 or above. This will tell you if you could have achieved the same exposure using your 24-240mm lens.
Undoubtedly the 70-200mm f2.8 is s superior lens, but the 24-240mm is also a decent lens. You could do some simple comparison tests of your own to see if you can tell the difference between images taken on these lenses.
You ask what you should take as a 3rd lens. Honestly, I do not see any reason for taking both the 70-200mm and the 24-240mm, other than the fact you own both. You’re just adding weight, when one of the objectives should be to keep weight and lens changing to a minimum.
If, after all of the above, you’re set on a new lens, then Canon do make some very good wide zooms in the 15-35mm range, although they are expensive.
Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM Zoom Lens
Canon RF 14-35mm f/4L IS USM Lens
Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens
If you want to avoid the cost of a new Canon lens then perhaps consider a Sigma lens which would be a lot cheaper; likewise a used Canon lens.
Hope this helps
Martin
thanks for the lovely article!!
I am a fuji user. I will be going to Kenya (samburu, amboseli, masai mara next year) for 10days.
I own 50-140mm F2.8, 18-55mm F2.8-4. and XT 5 as body. I only have one fuji body and probably not able to rent or own another body for the trip.
I’m in a dilemma whether to buy fujinon 150-600mm F5.6-8. this is my first africa trip. I aim to take pictures of the big fives and of course any form of birds around. I am not sure whether it will be useful during early morning and evening gamedrive since the lens is slow at 600mm F8. I wouldn’t want to dial up the ISO until 5000-6400. Instead, I was thinking of use the 50-140mm during the low light condition. then switch the lens to 150-600mm once there is more light. However, I was told that the condition is really dusty and not recommended to switch lenses in between. besides, I am afraid the 50-140mm is too short and will not be useful despite the F2.8mm
For wide angle shots, i will probably depend on the new iphone 16pro.
May i know your what’s your opinion? Is there away to change the lens safely without much dust during game drive?
Hi,
I understand your dilemma.
The 150-600mm is an excellent lens but it is not cheap. The first question I would ask myself is how much you will use it after your safari. It is an expensive piece of glass to leave sitting on a shelf.
Also, if you have not used a long lens before then a ‘once in a lifetime’ safari is perhaps not the best occasion to try it out. With your camera, the effective focal length of the lens would be 225-900mm. Even with the stabilisation, if you are not used to it, holding a 900mm lens steady takes practice.
Perhaps you might consider the Fujifilm XF 70-300mm f4-5.6 R LM OIS WR instead. It will give you an effective focal length of 105-450mm and would be much more manageable.
As for changing lenses while on safari. Of course it is possible but you just need to be very aware of the conditions and avoid doing it while the vehicle is travelling or when other vehicles near you are causing dust. A large ziploc bag can be useful, big enough to get your camera and both hands into.
When you know there is no dust around, use a rocket blower to blow away any dust that may have collected on your camera and lens. When blowing your camera, remove the lens and hold the camera so the lens mount is facing downwards; this allows any dust to fall out.
Martin
I have talked myself into and out if a couple of scenarios. I’ll be travelling to Zimbabwe in October and I’d love some advise on what to take. I’ll be travelling with 2 cameras, a Canon R5 and R6 camera body – 3 if you include my smart phone. My current plan is to take my sigma ef100-400 and my canon 800mm f11. I’m worried that the 800mm is too long, has too long of a minimum focus distance, it has an expandable body ( think dust) and is too slow at f11. On the other hand, it has very good image quality ( given good light) and good stabilization.
I could swap out the 800mm for my old trusty 70-200mm ef ii. Is that too short? It has great image quality, its fast but it’s heavy.
I’m bringing a newish smart phone that I plan to use for camp activities, sunsets etc. so I think I have that covered. I may bring a 16mm for nightscape milky way photos but I’d rather not swap lens out in the field.
Any advise is welcome. Thanks for this.
Hi John,
You are right to be concerned about dust. In October there is likely to be plenty of it, especially as Zimbabwe has been suffering drought conditions this year.
If you are taking a 100-400mm lens, I see little point in also taking a 70-200mm lens. All you gain is 30mm from 70mm-100mm.
So if you want to take 2 lenses your choice is 800mm or 16mm.
800mm -To be honest, I do not know how much you will use it though. Yes the light should be good enough for you, but in October it will be hot and that means heat haze which can really show itself in long lens photos. It messes with the camera’s ability to achieve sharp focus.
The subjects you are most likely to shoot with your 800mm are birds. Most mammals will be too close for it to be effective unless you want pictures of eyeballs.
16mm – You will probably find this a more useful lens than the 800mm, certainly lighter and less cumbersome, and good for large mammals like elephants; Zimbabwe has way too many elephants.
Using your 100-400mm lens on your R5 you have the option of switching to crop sized sensor which will still give you a similar pixel count to your R6, whilst increasing the focal length to 160-640mm. This would be sufficient for almost every subject.
In your position I’d take the 100-400mm, attached to the R5 and the 16mm attached to the R6. The R6/16mm may not get a lot of use but it will mean you have a backup body in your bag.
Enjoy your safari
Martin
Hi, I read all these very interesting articles which are starting to help crystallise what equipment I need to take for next years trip to the Okavanga delta. I use Canon and have both the 70-200 f2.8 and the 100-400 f5.6 and based upon your articles I am leaning towards taking the 70-200. I also plan to take a Canon 18-135 for wider angles. Two questions – does this range cover the majority of the requirements and should I expand the flexibility with a teleconverter? Many thanks
Tony,
If you plan to take your 18-135mm lens then, to me, it would make more sense to bring the 100-400mm than the 70-200mm.
With the 18-135mm & 100-400mm lenses you have an excellent focal range covered. Yes, I do appreciate that the 70-200mm will be lighter and faster, but 200mm is not really long enough for all situations.
Teleconverters are OK, but if you are in situations where you need to put it on then take it off frequently they are just pain.
cheers
Martin
So what I’ve gathered from this and comments.. I might use a setup like this and it would be a nice “minimal” kit where I won’t need to switch lenses or do much.
Canon R5 w/ 24-105 L
Canon R6 w/ 100-300 L (2.8 constant)
Putting the tele zoom on the less MP body gives me some wiggle room if I need to crop a shot out of the wider lens setup I’d think.
On the tele zoom:
alternatively 100-500 L but @ 500 its f/7…
So… do we not care about f/7 @ 500mm? at that length I guess that could still produce a decent background blur?
I hardly ever take my prime 35mm off… so I have very little familiarity with the long zooms and what a shot might look like at that aperture.
Drew,
You didn’t say where you’re going or what you’ll be photographing so my reply may be a bit general.
2 bodies and 2 lenses is a good setup.
Obviously an f2.8 lens will be more ‘flexible’ than an f7 lens but a lot will depend on the available light.
If you’re shooting mammals then 100-300mm will suffice. If you want to shoot birds then 100-500mm will be better.
Martin
I loved your article. I am heading to my 12th African country in less than 2 weeks….KENYA! I am trying to get photos of the elusive Giza (black leopard). We will be staying in a conservancy in Mara, laikipia and ole pejeeta ! I have been using a d3300 for years and just bought the z6iii (still in box–just received it in the mail and have not unboxed yet). I am looking for a new lens to take with me (hoping to keep it at 1 lens and have a few in my cart right now and was hoping you could give suggestions)
1. tamron_afa067z700 50-400mmf4.5/6.3 diiii for z mount
2. tamron 150-500 (but it seems very heavy)
3. nikon 180-600 (seems extremely heavy)
4. nikon z 70-200
5. nikon z 28-400
OR are there any you recommend?
*also do you have recommendations on camera strap, editing software, and settings. I am used to shooting on auto/sports and using basic editing. I really want 1 epic photo of Giza (fingers crossed). thank you so much
Hi Connie,
Congratulation on your new Z6iii. I have also recently bought one and it is a super camera.
To cut to the chase, I think your choice is realistically between the Tamron 50-400mm and the Nikon Z 28-400.
The Nikon Z 180-600 is a super wildlife lens but, as you say, it is a bit heavy and you may find it unwieldy.
I do not own either lens, but the reviews I have read suggest that although the Nikon does offer you a longer zoom range, the Tamron is better for image quality and is reputedly an excellent lens. They are both around the same price – in the UK at least.
The Tamron would cover most of what you want to shoot, although it would not be great for landscapes and closer shots of large mammals like elephants or giraffe. That said, a lot of people find that the latest cellphones take excellent photos.
Strap: The best strap I have come across is the Peak Design Slide (or slide lite)
Normally, when carrying a long lens or longer zoom lens it is best to attach the strap to both the camera body and the lens to distribute the weight evenly. If you attach the strap only to the camera body the weight of the lens can put a strain on the lens mount. However, neither the Tamron nor Nikon lenses have a tripod collar so you’d need to buy that as an extra.
Software: There is so much software out there and everyone has their own preference. It does depend what format you shoot your photos. If you shoot jpegs, then I’d recommend Photoshop Elements. It is not expensive and can do most of what you’ll need. If you plan to shoot RAW, then try the Nikon NX Studio software. It is free to download from the Nikon website. You can also use it for viewing and sorting your images.
In terms of setting up your Z6iii, I recommend that you visit Back Country Gallery where Steve Perry has a set of short videos to help set up the Z6iii. He also has a downloadable Z6iii setup guide in pdf format. It costs about US$30 but will save you a lot of heartache and should ensure you get everything right for your safari.
Hope that helps
Martin